4. How long does each candle last? I've tested these candles for years in various conditions. In my experience, each candle last up to 50 hours + when properly cared for. This means that the wax melts completely to the edge on the first burn, trimming to 1/8th an inch and burning for no more than 4 hours at a time. Using this method, I've noticed an increased lifetime of my candles in both my Signature Deluxe wooden wicked and Standard cotton wicked vessels.

5. What size room would the candles work best in? The 8oz candles work best in small to medium sized rooms. Largely open floor plans typically need at least 2-3 candles for the scent to travel well enough. Also known as "Scent Throw". The 2oz candles work best in a small office or bathroom space to get the full strength of the scent. However, some Adventurers' rumored that even the 2oz was enough to light up a medium sized room!

6. How strong are your scents? My scents were designed with sensitivities in mind. I wanted a candle that could subtly wisp you away yet be fully immersive! The end result? A candle scent that is soft yet magically ambient. In my product descriptions there will be a strength bar indicating which scents are Subtle, Potent and Powerful to help you decide which fragrances are best for you! Find them by clicking here!

7. Is everything able to be re-used or recycled? Yes! My packaging is recyclable and/or even reusable. Many of my components are naturally derived from our beautiful planet. My dream is to create products that are 100% recyclable and reusable with bio-degradable options where possible. Join me in my journey to creating sustainable packaging here!

1. Don't walk away! Never leave a burning candle unattended or out of sight. Extinguish the flame and check to make sure the embers diminish before leaving the room.

2. Clear your space! Never burn your candle on or near anything that can catch fire. Keep your candles away from drafts, curtains, papers, fabric, decorations and anything else flammable. Give your candles room to breathe and work their magic.

3. Keep away! Keep candles out of the reach of children, away from animals or anyone who could accidentally knock the candle over. Let's keep our loved ones safe and away from fire.

4. Drafts are the enemy of candles! Keep candles away from drafts, vents and air currents. This helps prevent uneven burning, sooting and excessive dripping. Place your candle in a clean, clear and open space.

5. Trim the wick! Extinguish the flame before it gets too high. This is especially important for wooden wicks! They will start to flicker and soot. Trim the wick to 1/8th an inch before relighting.

6. Don't touch! Never touch the candle when its lit or wax is liquified. The vessel is HOT and can cause injury. Wait for the wax to solidify to move your candle.

7. Cap when cooled! Never place the cap on a candle when it is lit or use the cap to extinguish the flame. Make sure the flame is extinguished before placing the lid on top of the candle.

8. Stay Awake! I understand better than most just how relaxing my candles can be. No matter how tempting, please extinguish your candles before falling asleep!

I tested these candles for YEARS to ensure they represent the quality and safety we all deserve! That is why I forge in small batches. I'm able to test every batch to ensure they meet my standards of safety and excellence. In the off chance you have an issue with my candles, please review these troubleshooting tips!

1. Candles have memory! When lighting your candle make sure you keep it lit until the "melt pool" (Otherwise known as the top layer of wax) liquifies and reaches the edges of the vessel. Otherwise, you will notice "Tunneling" which leaves a memory ring of wax around the edges. Always burn to the edge! My candles burn cooler which makes them last longer, however, this means the wax takes longer to get to the edge. For my candles this can take up to 3-4 hours.

2. Trimming is key! Especially with wooden wicks which burn best when just 1/8th an inch above the wax (which is closer than you'd think). Otherwise, the flame will be too hot and burn the wax and fragrance too quickly. You'll notice an ashy soot-like smoke coming from the wick, a dancing flame, black speckles in the wax or even a burnt smell. An even trim is a wooden wicks best friend! Carefully trim before every burn using a straight edged wick trimmer.

3. Don't exhaust your candles! I suggest burning these candles until the top layer has liquified completely and extinguishing the flame around the 3-4 hour mark. Any longer will cause the wax to overheat. Your candle will lose fragrance potency and be short-lived. Candles need rest to work their magic! Four hours is their cut-off.

4. Reuse and recycle! I created these candles with our concious packaging in mind. Every component with either bio-degradable, recyclable, or reusable! The vessel is perfect for game tokens, dice-jail, pencils and so on. Re-gift, re-use, recycle!

I have detailed videos and highlights about my pricing on my socials like Instagram and Tiktok regarding this.

I personally value charging what my worth is, and that includes charging for the costs of materials to make a product and my time. Where I do believe in being transparent, I don't subscribe to the idea that makers need to justify their pricing to every client.

However, I do enjoy educating others on my WHY and will be posting a blog that discusses pricing in depth that you can view at your leisure, to help you understand the difference between hand-made and manufactured costs.

I've tested these candles for years in various conditions. In my experience, each candle last up to 50+ hours when properly cared for. This means that the wax is melted to the edge of the vessel with every burn, the wick is trimmed to 1/8th an inch with every use and burning for no more than 4 hours at a time.

Using this method, I've noticed an increased lifetime of my candles in both my Signature Deluxe wooden wicked and Standard cotton wicked vessels.

Intrested in trying out my candles? I'll soon be offering sampler kits of my 2oz mini candles! Stay tuned on my socials for all my news here!

The wax and fragrances I use are free of toxins, parabens, phthalates and remain cruelty free! My hand-blended fragrances are sourced from companies who prioritize naturally derived and safe-synthetic products who have a concious eye on their impact.

While my wax is more expensive than others, the coconut blend is known for being a more sustainably derived wax that's more eco-friendly, free of toxins, carcinogens, phthalates, gluten and harmful mutagens. My products are never tested on animals! I have a great article on what a natural candle is here!

My wicks are made in the USA and FSC certified which meets the gold standard for ethical production. The wood is harvested from forests that are responsibly managed, socially beneficial, environmentally conscious, and economically viable. My cotton wicks are also lead free!

The Signature Deluxe candles contain 8oz of wax and fragrance combined.

Standard candles are also 8oz.

My tester minis are 2oz each! You can purchase them here.

Wax melts are a fantastic alternative if candles aren't allowed in your home, fire's may be too hazardous, or you enjoy stronger fragrances! That's because you don't NEED to use fire to melt the wax and enjoy the fragrance. Here's some more information...

1. What is a wax melt? Wax melts, also known as "tarts", are pieces of wax that use similar ingredients to candles, however, will often be made of a harder wax. Using harder "tart" waxes that when cooled, maintains the shape the wax was poured into. The best part about wax melts is their longevity and scent retention! They often use higher percentages of fragrance and last incredibly long! I've heard some Adventurers' even mix their melts together for form their own combinations! These will be available in my store soon so stay tuned!

2. What are they made of? I use a coconut blend tart wax. It's one of my favorite tart waxes because it handles fragrance incredibly well! Resulting in a fantastic scent-throw (distance the scent travels / strength of scent). My supplier also harvests the ingredients of this wax in a more sustainable way, which I really value!

3. How long do the wax melts last? Some dice-melts vary in size, but typically will stay fragrant for at least 10+ hours, sometimes longer! You'll notice that wax melts will start to lose potency around 10-12 hours, after which you'll need to remove the excess wax and use another!

4. What’s the return policy? The wax melt return policy is located here in the "Return Policy" page.

I currently use Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter and Mango Butter. I do hope to source sustainable Palm Oil in the future as well, this way I can make a Coconut oil-free soap for those with allergies.

Handmade soap is made with fewer ingredients, synthetics and chemicals which make using it better for both you and the environment. With my soap, what you see is what you get. There are no hidden components and most of the ingredients can be found at a local supermarket. I prefer simple recipes that feel luxurious on all skin types and require no internet searches to understand.

Each ingredient offers different benefits when combined with lye to create soap. Even though soap is a "wash off" product that doesn't sit on the skin very long, there is still benefits to using a soap bar with quality ingredients. Best of all, most ingredients are bio-degradable and better for the environment when sourced correctly.

Keep an eye out here on my blog for a breakdown of all my ingredients and why handmade soap from my shop is better for your skin.

Conduct a patch test where you use the soap on a sensitive area like your palms and see if any reaction occurs before using the soap all over your body. This way you can determine if you have any sensitivities to the ingredients listed.

Please make sure to read the ingredients list before using any of my products on your body and always stop use if any irritation occurs.

If you have an allergy to an ingredient listed in my standard recipe, feel free to contact me here or purchase a "Custom Soap Loaf" here and let me know what concerns you have. I'm open to crafting a custom soap just for you! I can remove specific ingredients, fragrances and colors to make something completely tailored to your needs.

Currently my soap is made through what's called a "cold process" by mixing oils, milks, colorants and fragrances together with sodium hydroxide lye. Combining those ingredients with lye initiate what's called "saponification" and turns the components into luxurious soap over the coarse of 6-8 weeks.

Head over to my blog where I will be discussing the saponification process, my ingredients and other fun facts in more detail!

Great Question! While epoxy resin dice are meant to be durrable they are not immortal. Surprisingly, hand-made dice require a little bit of maintience to keep them looking brilliant! Here are a few tips to follow...

1. Keep them out of the sun. Heat and light diminish and even change the color of your dice.

2. Do not leave them in the heat! Hot cars are one of the biggest culprits for dice warping. Some resin can warp and become softer when subjected to extreme heat. This can cause it to be dented easily or even warp in shape. While this is a rare occurance, don't chance it, and keep the dice in a bag out of the heat somewhere safe.

3. Roll on smooth surfaces. Dice trays are perfect for this, as they tend to keep the dice from falling on the floor and typically use felt or leather as a rolling surface. This means less scratches and better longevity of the dice.

4. Use a microfiber cloth for cleaning. Oils and debris from tables and trays can accumulate on our dice. Every once in a while, take a microfiber cloth and clean the surface. I sometimes use a cleaner (like glass cleaner) with it to help bring back the shine. Be wary of harsh chemicals.

5. Avoid lengthy exposure to water. I use water-based paints for inking the numbers of the dice. When exposed to water for long periods of time the numbers can start to peel off.

6. Roll like your life depends on it! My hand-made dice are guaranteed* to roll critical success within all your adventures ahead. In the event that a critical failure occurs**, be sure to properly punish the dice in an appropriate dice jail.

*The dice gods offer no guarantees.

**Oh the gods of dice can be cruel indeed!

My handmade dice are created using a vast number of components, the main one being artist epoxy resins. These resins are mixed with pigments (colors) as well as inclusions (pieces that go inside the dice) and poured inside a "Master-Mold" made with silicone to form the shape of a polyhedral dice set. These silicone molds are made with what dice-artificers call "Master-Dice" which are typically made with resin from a resin printer. All my masters, silicone molds, and dice are made in house! However, I will occasionally outsource more advanced masters to other small businesses.

Making a set of dice begins with me taking the fully cured, sanded and polished masters and making a new silicone mold to cast dice into. Once complete, I can begin casting our epoxy-resin dice into the silicone molds with the components of my choosing. This is where I can finally get creative! Once the dice have been pressurized to release air bubbles and cured enough to de-mold, we can take the dice out of the mold and allow them to cure. After curing, I re-sand and polish them, followed by inking and packaging.

Interested in learning more? Subscribe to my newsletter and keep your eye out for an eBook all about the process!

Yes i do take custom dice requests that are tailored to your specific needs and desires, however, the spots are quite limited.

Please click this link here to be taken to my "Hand-Forged Dice Commission" page where you can sign up to be put on my waitlist.

Not sure what "Tier" fits your needs? No problem, traverse to the Contact page where you can email be about your character, share photos and offer suggestions before purchasing.

Here is the link to my updated "read-only" waitlist. You will need to be logged in to your google account to acsess this page.

Hand-made dice are one-of-a-kind pieces of functional art that require hours of research, trial and error, extensive labor and incredibly high material component costs to create. Dice are considered a highly valued and "collectible" work of art. They are often never again replicated the same way, and very limited.

Commissions take that a step further by creating a custom piece of art tailored to the individuals desires to be displayed, used for a specific purpose, or even gifted. When I take on a commission it often requires triple the amount of time (sometimes more) than the standard dice created from my own mind. This is because of a few reasons...

1. Extra communication between myself and my client.

2. Revisions (I allow up to 3) if the client is unsatisfied with the result.

3. If the client doesn't have a clear vision, I go the extra mile to even read the backstories of their characters to create something they will absolutely love and cherish! Or learn about the persons favorite colors and ask for photos for inspiration.

Here are just a few of the things that make custom dice more valuable to the player, and how the price reflects that value.

As a maker, my prices need to reflect my quality of work and provide me with a living wage to support my family. I charge for materials, a hourly viable wage for my area, and account for all overhead in my prices.

If this doesn't answer your question, fear not! Feel free to check out my blog here where I answer a lot of questions and contact me here with anything specific.

Absolutely! Believe it or not, it takes purposeful placement of weighted inclusions and/or overly warped edges to throw off the balance of handmade dice. There are a multitude of tests that have been performed on handmade and mass-produced dice which show that even with inclusions like clay, liquid-cores, mylar etc., that the randomness in which the dice roll is perfectly fine for casual gaming.

All dice have imperfections regardless of where and how they are made. I've personally collected both factory and hand-made dice in the ten years I've been playing tabletop games. In those ten years, I've found no issue with the randomness of either. I don't have an issue with factory-made dice, I just have a preference toward hand made as I find them to be better quality overall.

My handmade dice masters are sanded on a honing stone with a +/- flatness variance of .01mm to help create the smoothest roll possible! I pay special attention to all my components when casting to ensure they don't disturb the balance. Lastly, each face is sanded to a glassy finish with utmost precision! If there are any unfixable issues that I believe would throw off the balance of my dice, I will always recast.

If you have any further questions don't hesitate to contact me here.

Every candle-lovers worst nightmare! This is the most common issue reported when using candles and caused by multiple factors.

1. First factor is candle memory; the wax remembers where it melted to on the first burn and will never exceed that point. Therefore, candlemakers stress the importance of letting the candle melt to the edges during the first use! It helps to melt the wax to the edge with every use, however, excess wax that is clinging to the sides does eventually burn down.

2. Second cause is wick trimming! when the wick flame is too low to produce a hot enough burn to melt the wax fully to the edge. This can happen because of a few reasons, the most popular being that the wick was cut a little too short!

Interested in how to fix it? Visit my socials and stay tuned for tutorial videos!

This is a common issue, and typically caused by two things.

1. The wick is being trimmed too short and doesn’t have enough room to breathe! This is easily fixed by carefully removing some of the wax from the jar. Re-heat and carefully remove a small amount of the wax, then smooth out the top by melting a thin layer. Let the wax re-solidify and re-light!

2. The wick is too long! This is typically more of a problem with some wooden wicks and specific fragrances. Wooden wicks have a happy place of 1/8th an inch above the wax. Too little and they extinguish. When there's too much wood for fuel it can be a huge fire hazard or struggle to stay aflame because of the excess wood. Always keep a straight edged trimmer handy and remember that wooden-wicks don't self-trim like some cotton wicks, and will need to be trimmed every 2-4 hours for the best flame!

Interested in seeing videos of this! Tutorials are coming soon!

Wooden Wicks: Wooden wicks don’t decay like some cotton wicks, and need to be trimmed every 2~4 hours. When the flame starts to produce soot, leave soot around the vessel, flickering or grows taller than an 1.5 inches it is time to trim the wick to 1/8th an inch above the wax.

Cotton Wicks: Trimming a cotton wick is just as crucial to the life of your candle as it is with cotton wicks. Some cotton wicks will self-trim some, but mushrooming will still occur over a period of 2-4+ hours. Mushrooming occurs with a buildup of wax on the wick tip causing a mushroom cap-like appearence. If you notice mushrooming, soot (which cotton wicks are more prone to), and/or an extremely erratic flame please extinguish it completely, let the candle re-solidify and trim the wick to 1/8th an inch before lighting again. This should solve the issue.

In the case of a faulty candle please contact me here. You may also review my return policies here.

These candles are hand-made, so not every batch is without fault. However, everyone smells fragrance at a different level and every home has a unique floor plan.

My candles are designed to be subtle yet immersive. In my experience, the 8oz candles do best in small-medium sized rooms. I use 2-3 candles in my home with a very open floor plan. Try moving your candle to a smaller room and addressing the scent there or adding more candles if your space is very open.

Another tip! Have you ever noticed that when you sit in a room with a candle for a while you can no longer smell it as much? That's called "Olfactory fatigue" or nose fatigue. It's 100% real and happens to the best of us. Go out for a walk, step outside the room and come back in 10-15m. Often this can help us smell the fragrance again.

Secondly, address each tip prior to this one to be positive you’re getting the most out of the candle.

A word of caution: With the rise of Covid in the last few years, many candle-lovers who've caught the virus have experienced long-term loss of smell. Where I hope that isn't the case, this can impact how my fragrances smell to you.

The biggest culprit of this issue is "power-burning" which is burning a candle for over four hours at a time and not letting the vessel cool off in between uses.

Candles need breaks, just like we do, otherwise the wax and vessel get over worked and this can lead to a burnt smelling fragrance, a drop in scent strength and candles that (you guessed it) don't last as long!

Don't burn a candle longer than what it takes for the wax to reach the edges of its vessel. Typically 2-4 hours is best. Then allow the candle to cool down before lighting it again.

Unfortunately there is no fix to this other than learning how to care for a candle and applying these tips next time.

This is a tricky issue which in my experience is commonly caused by the wick not being trimmed correctly. Typically, it happens when the wooden wick is not trimmed in a straight line. This happens most when people don't use a "wick trimmer" and resort to using fingers or nail clippers for removing the blackened pieces of wood.

Wooden wicks need a straight clean cut to burn most evenly, that's what makes them a little more "high maintenance" and "luxe" compared to cotton wicks. They need consistent upkeep and do best when trimmed with a straight-edged wick cutter.

I hope to supply these types of wick cutters in the future; however, you can easily find them with a quick internet search!

If you wish you cancel your order please email me here with your order number and reason for cancelation before the product is shipped. Otherwise a refund can't be issued. It's impossible to request the package back from my shipping provider once it's already been sent out. Please keep in mind the time it takes to receive a refund is dependent on your bank.

If you ordered the wrong products, please email me here before the package gets shipped. I will need to cancel the order and request that you put in a new one. Refund times vary depending on the bank you use.

If you happen to receive the wrong product, please email me at support@faerinesforge.com with photos of the incorrect item and provide me with a list of the correct items you'd like to have shipped out to your address on file.

I only offer exchanges on candles for sanitary reasons. Please read the following...

Candle Exchanges: My hope is that you will fall in love with the scent right out of the box, but this doesn't always happen. To help with this, I currently offer exchanges of unburned and fully intact candles!

Please send me an email through my contact page here, with the order number, preferred replacement(s) and the reason for the exchange. Be prepared to take photos of the candle before shipment and to pay for any shipping fees. I'll happily exchange the scent for you!

A few things to note: I do not offer exchanges for any other products. If the product arrives damaged I cannot process a replacement.

For damaged candles upon arrival of your package, please email me here at support@faerinesforge.com with photos of the damage within 48 hours of receiving the product as well as the order number and any details that will assist me in filing an investigation with the shipping provider. Occasionally USPS will request proof of damage, please be prepared to drop off the damaged package at your local post office.

Once the investigation is complete they will typically refund you in the form of a check.

Buying products online is challenging! I'm confident that my descriptions can assist you in choosing the perfect loot for your castle! However, if you're having an issue and need to discuss a return or exchange please visit my return policies page here.

Wholesale ordered are offered to people who want to purchase my wares in very large quantities. This is perfect for weddings, large events, business giveaways or spoiling your adventuring party.

I currently take wholesale inquiries via email and direct messages on my social platforms. You can start by contacting me here at support@faerinesforge.com with your questions and wholesale needs.

All wholesale orders are required to fill out a "Terms & Conditions" contract. The invoice is due in full before I begin any production. My current minimum for wholesale purchases is $1000. I do not currently offer payment plans, but many platforms like PayPal do, which I accept.

Discounts vary depending on the product. Please contact me with what products you're interested in purchasing, the quantity and your desired timeline. Production time also varies depending on the product and quantity requested.